Castello Banfi - Dining In Montalcino, Italy

It is often said that it's impossible to dine badly in Italy, and as a general rule that's true. There are enough customers to make the restaurant business a real profession, even a calling, and intense local pride focuses attention on regional recipes. Those customers are used to good home cooking, and so they make the same demands when they go out--and almost always find satisfaction. From humble, roadside eateries to the finest tables in top cities, there is good reason for the tendency of travelers returning from Italy to regale listeners first and foremost about "the food."

Italian cuisine as a whole is based on the simple and careful cooking of perfect ingredients rather than elaborate sauces and complicated preparation. This is what's known as "la cucina povera," peasant cooking based on ingredients that are home-grown, such as salad greens, fresh vegetables, and farm-raised meat, or gathered in the wild, such as porcini mushrooms, asparagus, and game. This is especially true of the restaurants in Montalcino and elsewhere in southern Tuscany, as opposed to the more cosmopolitan area immediately surrounding Florence. In keeping with this unspoiled approach, there's a welcome informality to dining in and around Montalcino: table cloths there may be, but stuffiness, no. Most restaurants are family-owned and family-operated; when staff must be hired, the owners consult friends and family, not employment agencies.

Most Italians take their full meal at lunchtime, and dine on lighter fare later in the evening, but a full dinner is not unusual these days, either. Because most restaurants are small, it's best to reserve ahead. Phone or, if near by, drop in earlier. The latter is more fun: when you return you'll be greeted like a friend. Most restaurants serve lunch from about noon to 2:00 or 3:00, then take a midday break and serve dinner from 7:30 (considered early) to as late as 10:00 or 10:30. The menu notation "Lo chef consiglia" introduces the daily specials. Smoking is permitted in most restaurants, few of which have no-smoking areas.

Castello Banfi is one of those rural, out of the way places that has had a “path beaten to its door.” It has become a destination not only to visit the vineyards, winery, glass museum, balsameria or full service enoteca to taste our award winning wines, but a multi-faceted dining destination as well. Lunch at Taverna Banfi is a familiar and jovial respite, warming the soul as a territorial expression of this unique corner of Tuscany. Dinner at the Michelin-starred Ristorante Castello Banfi, made ethereal with candle light and discretely attentive service, takes broader culinary cues from across the Tuscan hills as they stretch to the sun drenched shores of the Mediterranean.

Either Taverna Banfi or Ristorante Castello Banfi are well worth the trip, but for those visiting our estate on a day when the restaurants are fully booked or closed, or simply seeking something different, there are alternatives in the surrounding area.

Il Maruchetto
Via della Stazione, 9, Sant'Angelo Scalo
Tel. 0577.808000
Closed Thursdays

At the foot of the lengthy, winding, cypress-lined drive that leads from Castello Banfi to the Banfi winery in the valley below, and just across the main road to Montalcino, is the small town of Sant'Angelo Scalo, where one goes for what is otherwise seldom found hereabouts: seafood. Meats and pizzas are also available and excellent, but seafood is king, from appetizers to pastas with seafood garnishes to entrees. Shrimps, mussels, clams, calamari, octopus, tuna, swordfish, sole and more are fine and fresh--remember, the coast is only a few miles away. In deference to the proximity of the winery, almost all Castello Banfi wines are available here. Il Marruchetto is a large place as Tuscan restaurants go, with a bright, spacious dining room behind a roomy bar area. The atmosphere is busy but welcoming. On busy nights it can be overwhelmed by all the frying, so it's best to dine early. Visa and Mastercard accepted.

Il Galletto
Vicolo dell’Arco 7, Camigliano
Tel. 0577 816007
Closed Wednesdays

In the sleepy hamlet of Camigliano, this simple, informal osteria offers the kind of warm local hospitality that revived weary travelers centuries ago when they stumbled into out of the way locales. Hosts Stefano and Valentina follow the rhythms of the season to to prepare the kind of classic Tuscan cuisine that has been reborn in high style.

Il Castelluccio
Via Dante Alighieri 1, Paganico
Tel. 0564 905061
Closed Thursdays

The road signs tell you to bypass Paganico to avoid congesting its narrow and short main thoroughfare, but if you park outside the gate closest to the road leading to Siena and Grossetto, you can stroll through its charming piazza and come back for a dinner time treat. Proprietor Daniele is famous for his pizzas with thin crust and abundant flavor, but don’t miss his fresh fish and seafood pastas. Convivial groups of young people from the area make for a lively and joyful ambience. Opened for dinner only. Visa and Mastercard accepted.

Antica Fattoria del Grottaione
Via della Piazza, Montenero d’Orcia
Tel./Fax 0564 954020, e-mail: info@anticafattoriadelgrottaione.it
Closed Mondays

A short distance up the road that leads from the Banfi winery to Monte Amiata, there is a turn off for Montenero – follow the windy road into town and just when you think you can’t drive any further (actually, you can’t), you’ll find a sleepy little piazza that looks more like a movie set for post war Italy. Enter the Antica Fattoria del Grottaione off the middle of this square, and the promise of genuine Italy is held in the form of dishes lovingly prepared by family, using the freshest local ingredients according to season, served in a warm and genial but sophisticated atmosphere. In season, the veranda offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Major credit cards accepted.

A visitor to Montalcino faces an embarrassment of riches when it comes to dining. Like many another thriving small town, it seems to have restaurants every few yards, some barely visible down narrow alleys and others spilling tables into the streets. As would be expected of a medieval center, parking is limited because of narrow streets, many too narrow--mercifully--for any vehicular traffic at all. But strategically located parking lots, including one near the fortezza and another off the Piazza Cavour at the other end of town, are a short, appetite-building walk to a selection of restaurants tucked within the alleys of town.

Taverna del Grappolo Blu
Scale di Via Moglio 1
Tel. 0577 847150 / Fax 846 400
Closed Fridays

At its northern end, Piazza del Popolo spills into Via Mazzini. There, while admiring the narrow slices of view between old stone walls, one could become so entranced by the perfectly framed vista of the old Convent of San Francesco that it would be easy to miss the modest oval sign of Grappolo Blu, but the wonderful aromas drifting from Maria Pia’s kitchen will draw you in. Head down the stairs (“scale” means stairs) to this compact, two-room restaurant; warm, brick floored and full of happy-looking diners at its bare wooden tables, caringly looked after by Maria Pia, her husband Luciano, daughter Anna and sometimes even young grandson Edoardo. Enjoy the pinci (thick, hand rolled spaghetti that is a local specialty and addiction) with meat sauce and mushrooms or “all aglione,” served with whole cloves of garlic and cherry tomatoes; rabbit in Brunello sauce, flavorfully roasted turkey breast, guinea hen with lemon sauce, obligatory side orders of cannellini beans, refreshing salads of spelt, tomato or greens, and more – all excellent.

Re di Macchia
Via S. Saloni 21
Tel. 0577 846 116 / Fax 847 834, e-mail: redimacchia@tiscalinet.it
Closed Thursdays

Run by a handsome young couple determined to please – Roberta in the kitchen elegantly executes traditional dishes of the region, while Antonio oversees service of food and, equally important, wine. The reception area is a small, fireplaced anteroom that gives way to a somewhat roomier loung – a good place for a pre-dinner drink while your party assembles. Downstairs are two high-ceiling dining rooms, whose medieval brick arches and wood beams blend nicely with pale peach walls lightly sponged in white. The drapery and table linen elegantly compliment the color scheme, as do flowers on every table.

Osteria di Porta al Cassero
Via della Libertá 9 / Via Ricasoli 32, Montalcino
Tel. 0577.847196
Closed Wednesdays

A two-minute walk from the fortezza, this place is more than easy to find: with entrances on two streets, it's virtually "can't miss." The same goes for the food. Homemade pastas and soups, grilled sausages, potato and meat croquettes, stewed wild boar served with those tiny, delicious white Tuscan beans, are all excellent. A big surprise is liver and onions, moew commonly known as a specialty of Venice. Here the local style is to cook the onions in tomato sauce, and the result is superb. Inside, the decor consists of an attractive collection of framed 19th century photographs of Montalcino; outside there's a small walled dining patio. Clientele is a mix of visitors and locals, who come not only for the setting but for the nostalgia of home-style cooking. Amex, Visa and Mastercard accepted; closed Wednesdays.

Trattoria L’Angolo
Via Ricasoli 9
Tel. 0577 848017
Closed Tuesdays

A warm atmosphere is matched by the jovial hospitality of this family-run restaurant, always popular with a local crowd as well as visitors. The menu presents a wealth of choices: Bruschetta and crostini, of course, but also pecorino gratin and salumi Toscani (splendid home-cured meats). Among the pastas, both the pinci and the ravioli are homemade. Then come dishes like roast chicken and roast saddle of pork, both good. If there’s room for dessert, you may settle on a plate of cantucci – light sugared biscuits with nuts – to be dipped, Tuscan style, into glasses of FloruS Moscadello di Montalcino, a beguiling dessert wine that recalls the moscadelleto made in this region centuries ago and rhapsodized in 16th century poetry.

Pizzeria San Giorgio
Via Soccorso Saloni 10/14, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 848507
Closed Wednesdays

San Giorgio is open only for dinner, and during the day its doors conceal its very existence to the point of anonymity. But at night, when the wood-burning oven is lit, there is no mistaking the life that it brings to this quiet end of town. The oven master excels in the thin-crusted, crispy pizzas with a myriad of toppings, including such unique combinations as tuna and olives, artichokes and prosciutto, and hot peppers and onions. The menu of local specialties should not be overlooked, either. Amex, Visa and Mastercard accepted; closed Wednesdays.

Le Potazzine
Piazza Garibaldi 8
Tel 0577 846054
Closed Mondays

A tiny but refined family run Trattoria in the center of town offers all the requisite local dishes and wonderful wine to match. In warm weather, you can dine al fresco in one of Montalcino’s delightful piazzas.

Ristorante Il Giglio
Via Soccorso Saloni 5
Tel. 0577 848167 e-mail: hotelgiglio@tin.it
Closed Tuesdays

Part of the small, quaint hotel of the same name on a corner just below Piazza Garibaldi, Ristorante Il Giglio is entered through the hotel lobby. The dining room has an airy, minimalist feel to it and the menu features local specialty pastas such as the hand-made pinci, chick pea soup, and a good assortment of tasty fried foods, steaks and desserts. In season, they feature a broad selection of dishes prepared with wild mushrooms. Major credit cards accepted; closed Tuesdays.

Pizzeria Il Grifo
Via Mazzini 18
Tel 0577 847070
Closed Mondays

The focus here is on pizza, with a flavorful, pillowy crust and a broad range of toppings that encompasses just about anything the imagination can conjure up – and then some! But there is also an excellent selection of antipastos and traditional main courses that are all excellent. The restaurant is narrow, but its warmly painted walls and comfortable furniture make it cozy and friendly, a popular spot for local friends to meet, where friendly chatter between tables is not uncommon. Open for dinner only; major credit cards accepted.

Osteria al Giardino
Piazza Cavour 2
Tel 0577 849076, e-mail: osterialilgiardino@virgilio.it
Closed Wednesdays

New management for what was historically one of Montalcino’s first osterias. Enjoy the warm, inviting Tuscan ambiance inside, or take up one of the inviting tables in the small park across the road to watch local life go by in this busy piazza (this is the route that leads to the town library, elementary school, gym, and hospital, among other destinations). Reliable Tuscan cuisine also makes room for some of the chef’s creations inspired from further afield.

A short ride beyond the walled town of Montalcino and into the surrounding hills offers a plethora of breathtaking views, peaceful serenity, and choice dining.

Located just outside of town on the road leading down the slopes and in the direction of SS2 for Rome and Siena, the Fiorani family has turned their family homestead into a charming restaurant. While sticking to the local principle of using only the freshest natural ingredients in simple but delicious preparations, Boccon DiVino adds a note of creativity. Tagliolini with truffles from nearby Mt. Amiata is a special feature, along with the restaurant's signature dish, Carabaccia. This rich bread and onion stew is said to be the Italian precursor that Caterina de Medici brought with her in marriage to the king of France and became French onion soup. Traditionally hearty fair such as rabbit with juniper and the ubiquitous stewed wild boar are prepared with a light touch. Vanna Fiorani, who was born on the property, has taught her daughters Alessandra and Marina to cook the way she learned at her own mother’s knee. Nowadays Vanna is more often than not home watching her young grandchildren, while her daughters take turns running the kitchen or waiting on guests together with their father, Mario, and Alessandra’s husband Antonio. Before long, you too will feel like a part of this graceful family. Major credit cards accepted.

Trattoria Il Pozzo
Piazza del Popolo 2, Sant’Angelo in Colle
Tel. 0577 844015
Closed Tuesdays

At the traffic circle in Montalcino, take the fork indicated with blue signs for Sant’Angelo, Paganico and Grosseto, which also leads toward the Castello Banfi winery. A few bends down the road, before reaching any of those locations, you will come to the quintessential hilltop town of Sant’Angelo in Colle (on the hill, distinct from Sant’Angelo Scalo further down in the valley). Turn onto the narrow road and follow it up the hill and into the heart of this tiny town, parking below the piazza that you then cross on foot to the far end. Hidden around a corner, behind the well (“pozzo” in Italian) from which it takes its name, you will find this sleepy Trattoria. You enter into a bar and will find the restaurant through a narrow passage in the back; it’s a small room, decorated modestly but warmly, with tables for no more than 20. Their crostini will whet the appetite grown on the hike up this sumptuous summit, and their pinci is among the best in the area. Daily selections often include wild boar and Arista, a roasted pork loin that is a local specialty. Major credit cards accepted.

Osteria Il Leccio
Via Costa Castellare 1-3, Sant’Angelo in Colle
Tel. 0577 844175, e-mail: info@trattoriailleccio.it
Closed Wednesdays

Dine al fresco in the piazza that is the heart of this tiny hilltop town, or enjoy the elegant and cozy setting inside where the rich fabrics of table cloths and chairs offset the stone walls and wrought iron fixtures. An array of mouthwatering dishes are offered, and the restaurant is rapidly becoming known for its outstanding Bistecca Fiorentina, a T-Bone steak of the highest quality, simply grilled and served rare, with lemon, salt and olive oil offered at table. Major credit cards accepted.

Osteria La Collina
Via Traversa dei Monti 214, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 84901
Closed Mondays

Traditional hearty local dishes are prepared in this countrified setting, informal and comfortable.

Ristorante/Pizzeria Bellaria
Via Osticcio 19
Tel 0577 848668
Closed Mondays

On a scenic curve just outside the walls of town, the Hotel Bellaria also offers traditional Tuscan cuisine in an informal setting, rounding out the charm of this true country inn. Fresh pasta and desserts are homemade, and pizza is served in the evening. The hotel's lot offers ample parking.

There are a handful of establishments in Montalcino whose main business is selling wine, but, since wine and food together are so much a part of the culture, they also offer light "snacks" such as cheeses, cured meats and bread.

The complete production of Montalcino's wineries are represented in this corner of the medieval Sienese fortress, along with local cheeses, spreads, honeys, grappas, olive oils and more. In addition to retail bottle sales, a rotating selection of wines can be purchased by the glass along with sandwiches or plates of cheeses, cured meats and breads to be enjoyed at tables inside or in the fortress' courtyard. The adventurous visitor can, for a small fee, scale the ramparts and stand atop the towers for bird's-eye views of the town and surrounding countryside.

Caffé Fiaschetteria 1888
Piazza del Popolo 6, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 849043
Closed Thursdays

With a storefront and tables flowing out onto the town's main piazza, this quaintly decorated café is the epicenter of what makes up Montalcino's social life. Locals and tourists side by side enjoy coffee, beer or a wide selection of wine by the glass; pastries, sandwiches and other snack foods keep the appetite at bay. A small room behind the bar area is stocked with bottles of premium wines and grappas, olive oil, and locally baked biscotti for retail sale.

Le Logge di Piazza
Piazza del Popolo 6
Tel. 0577 846168
Closed Thursdays

A modern looking coffee bar serving drinks as well as light dishes (soups, cheeses and salumi) plus a nice buffet of snacks and mini sandwiches during “happy hour” in the early evening. Also a late night hang out for the young scene, playing hip music to the small hours.

This narrow, pedestrian-only main street in town is made slightly more narrow in fair weather thanks to a row of umbrella-covered tables that spill out of this wine shop, which offers sandwiches and platters of cheese and cured meats as well as the occasional soup or salad. A deli counter sells cheeses, salamis and other local goods for take-out, as well.

Bar Belvedere
Corso Matteotti 31, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 848248
Closed Mondays

This café offers a selection of drinks, wine, coffee, sweets, ice creams, sandwiches and tartlets, with seating in a window-lined back room offering yet another stunning view of Montalcino's back streets and the surrounding hills.

Enoteca Osteria Osticcio
Via Matteotti 23
Tel. 0577 848271
Closed Sundays

The pretty but simple entrance to this shop does not do justice to the beautiful view of the surrounding hills to be found in the two levels of show rooms inside. A simple menu offers a selection of crostini, cheeses, salumi and other savory delights to accompany a broad selection of wines by the glass taken from the wine shops ample stock from the region and beyond. Proprietors Tullio and Francesca Scrivani also pride themselves in their excellent selection of balsamic vinegars and other specialty products.

Les Barriques
Piazza del Popolo 22
Tel. 0577 848414, e-mail: lesbarriques3@hotmail.com
Closed Tuesdays

This well-stocked enoteca also serves some simple, tasty Tuscan dishes in a cozy setting.

It is a matter of debate whether Montalcino has more wine shops or churches, but certainly the merchants are giving the clerics a run for their money with new enoteca doors opening on a regular basis. Here are a few that are limited to retail sales of wines, grappas and other local products.

Enoteca Grotta del Brunello
Costa di Piazza Garibaldi 2, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 847177

Enoteca Dalmazio Bruno
Via Traversa dei Monti 214, Montalcino
Tel. 0577 849019